Fernie BC Excels in Outdoor Adventure with a Dose of History and Artistry

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All photos © Robin and Arlene Karpan

Fernie stood out as one of our favourite stops along Highway 3 through the Kootenay Rockies of British Columbia. The town is most famous for its mind-boggling assortment of year-round outdoor adventure possibilities. But it also boasts a rich history with many preserved heritage buildings, a vibrant arts scene, not to mention stunning landscapes everywhere we looked.

Located in the East Kootenays in southern BC, Fernie has a population of about 5,200 year-round. It’s less than an hour’s drive from the Crowsnest Pass on the Alberta/BC border, an hour or so drive east of Cranbrook, or about three to four hours from Calgary.

Fernie, BC with a backdrop of Rocky Mountains — Rocky Mountains surround the town of Fernie, BC.

The town owes its beginnings to coal deposits in the area. In the late 1800s when coal mining was developing in earnest and the railway arrived, houses sprang up as did businesses, stores and services to supply the fast-growing industries.

Two disastrous fires tore through the community in 1904 and 1908, but the determined town rebounded with a new vision, investing not only in mining but also embracing the growing tourism sector.

Steam train mural, Fernie, BC — Steam train mural.

Today Fernie proudly displays its heritage in its downtown core, with many historic buildings repurposed with new uses. Tourism businesses abound, servicing just about any outdoor sport you can name from white-water rafting to heli-skiing, fishing, golfing, hiking, biking, snowboarding, and more.

Visitor Centre

Your first stop in Fernie should be the visitor centre on the east end of town along Highway 3. You can’t miss it – just watch for the landmark Fernie Oil Derrick, the last standing wooden oil derrick in BC. The metal components used in the structure are from some of the first derricks that operated in the province.

The visitor centre has a range of detailed maps and brochures on hiking or biking trails and other outdoor activities, birding opportunities, and places to enjoy nature and the mountain scenery. They also have a selection of gifts and artwork for sale, and a play structure by the oil derrick where kids can burn off some energy.

Take a Hike on the Ferry Creek Falls Trail

Fairy Creek, Fernie, BC — The trail to Ferry Creek Falls runs along the creek in places.

There are so many hiking and biking trails that it’s almost overwhelming. A great place to start is the easy but impressive Ferry Creek Falls Trail with its trailhead right beside the Visitor Centre. This pleasant walk goes through forest and meadows, following Fairy Creek to a lovely set of waterfalls.

The pathway is well-signed. Along the way panels provide interesting tidbits about the flora and fauna. Allow about two hours walking at a leisurely pace to complete the 5-km return easy hike that has minimal elevation gain. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the bright red and white spotted mushroom with a fairy sitting on top.

Panels along Fairy Creek Falls trail, Fernie, BC — A panel explains aspects of the flora and fauna on the Fairy Creek Falls walk.

Fairy Creek Falls emblem, Fernie BC — Fairy statue at the end of Fairy Creek Falls trail in Fernie.

The Ferry Creek Trail intersects with a number of other trails if you want to extend your walk. One has the dubious name of Swine Flu. Don’t worry about catching the dreaded disease. The trail is mostly used for mountain biking and it seems that cyclists are fond of giving their trails oddball names.

Trail marker, Fernie, BC — Mountain bike trail marker in Fernie.

Get in Touch with Historic Fernie

With a compact centre that extends along 2nd Avenue between 3rd and 9th Street, Fernie packs a lot of history and atmosphere into a relatively small space. Most buildings were erected after the Great Fire of August 1, 1908 when flames tore through the commercial district causing a huge property loss. Locally-made yellow and rose-coloured brick and sandstone buildings became the standard for reconstruction, decorated with an assortment of arches, moldings, and other accents.

Downtown Fernie BC — Fernie’s vibrant and picturesque downtown.

Today, many of those buildings now house distinctive restaurants (some with welcoming outdoor patios with floral displays), galleries and artisan shops, gear supply stores, and everything from book stores to places to buy souvenirs.

To learn about the background of many of Fernie’s notable buildings, download a copy of the Fernie Heritage Walk brochure. You can also pick up a paper copy at the Visitor Centre, and other places in the downtown area.

Some ornate buildings include the Holy Family Catholic Church, the Imperial Bank, and the Fernie Livery & Transfer Co. The livery building is unique to the town, constructed not from brick but from rubble stones taken from the Elk River. Using horse-drawn wagons, the company delivered coal, milk and other supplies in the days before automobiles became the norm.

Livery stable, Fernie, BC — Former livery company in downtown Fernie.

The Fernie Museum located downtown on 2nd Avenue in a former bank has displays on Fernie’s heritage along with visitor information. It is also where you can learn more about the people and events that shaped Fernie on a 90-minute walking tour.

The Distinctive Court House and City Hall

Fernie court house, Fernie, BC — Fernie’s imposing Courthouse.

We were especially impressed by a couple of buildings. The ornate chateau-style Fernie Courthouse on 4th Avenue dates to 1909 and was built of red brick following the destruction of the original courthouse in the Great Fire a year before. It sits by itself in a spacious park where a marble and stone cenotaph pays tribute to those lost in wars. In 2014, the Court House won the Best Building Contest for the Interior Region from the Architecture Foundation of British Columbia.

Fernie, BC City Hall. — City Hall, Fernie.

The other is City Hall, a stately building constructed using cement blocks in 1905 as headquarters for the Crow’s Nest Pass Coal Company. Their offices remained here until 1984 when it became Fernie’s City Hall.

Miners Walk, City Hall, Fernie, BC — Miners Walk in front of City Hall in Fernie.

In front of City Hall, the Miners Walk features the story of mining in the area while recognizing the contributions of countless miners to the economy and the town. Rows of bricks lining the pathway are inscribed with the names of past and present miners.

Most intriguing is a sculpture at one end. Look at it from one angle and all you see are posts and various shapes. Perhaps a piece of abstract art? But step back and change your angle of view and all the pieces converge forming the face of a miner with a hard hat and lamp.

Miners sculpture, Fernie BC — Fragmented pieces of the miners sculpture.

Miner sculpture, Fernie, BC — Sculpture of a miner comes together when looked at from a distance on the Miners Walk in front of City Hall.

The Fernie Arts Scene

Fernie is well-known as an artistic community. Galleries and studios abound featuring work by artisans in hand-crafted jewelry, forged iron, glasswork, candles, prints, textiles, pottery, nature-inspired paintings, and even a chain-saw carver. The brochure Fernie Art Walk helps set the stage and has a map and self-guided tour highlighting many popular places to visit. A paper copy is also available at the visitor centre.

Mural in Fernie, BC. — Mural in downtown Fernie.

Arts events, festivals, workshops and demonstrations are held throughout the year. In the downtown area, murals on many buildings depict aspects of Fernie’s past, as well as ideas and hopes for its future such as All Kinds of Beauty on the Corner of 7th St. and 2nd Ave. Even dumpsters around town have been painted.

Mural in downtown Fernie, BC — All Kinds of Beauty mural, downtown Fernie.

More information

Fernie’s tourism website is one of the most comprehensive we have seen anywhere. It comes packed with all the information you need to plan your visit. You can view and download many brochures ahead of time including Easy Family Hikes, Birding & Wildlife Viewing that includes seasonal guided hikes and nature tours, what to explore in Mount Fernie Provincial Park close to town, and an assortment of trail maps for seasonal activities. You will also find information on camping, resorts, and other types of accommodation, restaurant listings, and so much more. And if you’re planning on getting married while you’re in Fernie, there’s even a helicopter charter company that will help you plan a photo shoot on a mountaintop.

For travel information and ideas on road trips, cities, hot springs, and other activities to enjoy throughout the region, visit Kootenay Rockies. And for travel in other parts of British Columbia, HelloBC has plenty of ideas.

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