The first thing that struck us about Loreto was how different it is from most other places in Mexico we have flown into. About halfway along the state of Baja California Sur, it’s a world away from Mexico’s mega-resort areas or crowded cities. Instead, we find a charming colonial city of less than 20,000 beautifully situated on the turquoise waters of the Gulf of California and surrounded by rugged desert and mountains begging to be explored.

The best part is that it was easy to get to. A four-hour non-stop flight from Calgary on Westjet brought us to Loreto’s small airport, just 10 minutes outside town.

Loreto is one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, or Magic Towns, recognized by the government for their outstanding beauty, history, or other extraordinary qualities.

What we especially loved about Loreto is that getting in touch with nature drives tourism rather than being a sideline as in many parts. Every day can bring different adventures – hiking in the hills, horseback rides along the beach, kayaking, snorkelling, and exploring the largest protected natural landscape in Latin America. Phenomenal bird life and world-famous whale watching round out the choices. We’ll be featuring those attractions in future posts, but this time we’ll take a look at Loreto itself.

Historic capital of The Californias

Loreto has a long and rich history. In the Spanish colonial era, Loreto became the capital and administrative centre of The Californias – not only the peninsula of Baja California but also several parts of what is now the southwest United States including the state of California.

Loreto’s storied past goes back even further to 1697 when Jesuits chose this site for their first mission since it had fresh spring water nearby. Our Lady of Loreto Mission became the first successful settlement along the peninsula and a hub for Spanish control and Jesuit expansion into new territories. The Baroque-style stone church with its bell tower stands proudly near the centre square, begun in 1740 and completed four years later.

The nearby city hall has an impressive colonial façade. Be sure to walk inside to see the murals depicting historic scenes, myths and traditions. They cover several walls including the stairway to the upper level.

On Fridays, the open area in front of the city hall becomes a lively night market with mostly young artisans proudly displaying their handmade jewelry and other crafts. Pick up a snack at a food stall, or enjoy street performances and local musicians.

These spots are along a wide pedestrian-only street that starts at an archway on the waterfront and extends into the historic centre. It’s a wonderful place to wander with a laid-back vibe and streets that are never crowded.

The Malecon and Waterfront

The Malecon or waterfront walkway is the other prime area tailor-made for a leisurely stroll. Besides the boat docks, hotels, restaurants, and beach, it’s a great place to watch brown pelicans, boobies and other marine birds dive for fish in the protected inlet. It became our go-to spot for sunrise, with the first rays of the day appearing over the hills of nearby Carmen Island.

Facing the malecon, the sprawling La Mision Hotel is among Loreto’s top digs. The view from the balcony of ocean-facing rooms can’t be beat. The hotel is famous for the lavish buffet breakfast served daily in Los Olivos restaurant. On weekends they add traditional specialties such as posole (pork soup), birria (tender beef in broth) and a large table with assorted desserts. That’s right, dessert for breakfast! You dine in fine style accompanied by live music.

The Hotel Oasis is a short walk away along the beach. A top specialty here is their Saturday Clam Bake buffet. They start a fire in a sandy pit on the beach and cook freshly gathered tatemada clams in the hot sand. Or you can have your clams roasted over a wood-fired barbeque and flavoured with spices, garlic, and butter. Ribs and chicken round out the barbeque choices.

If you’re really into barbecue, pay a visit to Serrano Wine, Seafood & Grill, considered the premier steakhouse in town. While they offer a wide array of menu choices, their top-quality beef heads the list, grilled over a mesquite wood fire. This is the perfect place to sample some of the local red wines. Baja California has become recognized as Mexico’s prime wine-growing region, both in quality and quantity. Manager Isidoro suggested an exceptional 2022 gold medal winner from Baja California’s Guadalupe Valley that would stand up to any wines.

San Javier Mission

No visit to Loreto is complete without also seeing nearby San Javier, which is closely tied to Loreto’s history. After the initial mission was established in Loreto, it became clear that water sources were not sufficient to grow crops and sustain agriculture. The search began for other suitable locations.

Local Cochimi inhabitants told of a valley across the Sierra de la Giganta mountains, about 30 kilometres from Loreto. Pleased with the site that had access to spring water, the Jesuits founded a second mission here in 1699. Soon agriculture took hold with planted olive trees, date palms, orchards, and crops. Known as the Jewel of the Missions, San Javier now has fewer than 200 residents.

While fairly close to Loreto, the mountain road to San Javier constantly winds through the rugged terrain. Partway along we stopped to look over a portion of the original trail. Known as the Camino Real, or Royal Road, at one time it connected a series of missions stretching from Loreto all of the way north to present-day Sonoma in the US state of California.

San Javier is not only one of the oldest missions, it’s also considered the best preserved. Church construction using locally quarried stone started in 1744 and took 15 years to complete. It has changed little over the years.

San Javier Farm

Seeing the mission church was only one reason for our visit. We were also there to dine at San Javier Farm, just behind the church. Considered the first Farm to Table Restaurant in the Loreto area, arrangements are made through the Hotel Posada de la Flores in Loreto where a van picks up guests for the trip to San Javier.

Manager Luis Salvatori greets guests as we’re welcomed with a glass of strawberry margarita. We wandered through the grounds where olive trees provide shade for the gardens brimming with fresh vegetables and the tallest cilantro plants we have ever seen. It’s fascinating to think that 300 years ago, Jesuits started planting olive trees and established orchards that are still in use today.

Chef Saul Torres, a native of San Javier, builds on these historical roots bringing together locally sourced products for a one-of-a-kind dining experience. He described each course which this night consisted of a salad, ginger and carrot gazpacho soup, barbequed flank steak, followed by a pear in red wine for dessert. He explained that the ingredients vary according to what is seasonally available.

Everyone at the table faced in the same direction toward a huge screen because during the meal we watched presentations on the nature and culture of Loreto. Just as we finished the final course, the moon was rising over the mountains. After the meal, they switched off the lights and we turned our attention to the brilliant night sky, far away from any light pollution. Not only was the food superb, but it was one of the most pleasant settings for a meal we have had anywhere.

For more information on visiting Loreto, see Loreto Tourism website that has plenty of suggestions for activities, places to eat, and nature experiences.

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