All photos © Robin and Arlene Karpan

Bed and Breakfasts are often a great alternative to the impersonal experience of staying in hotels. As we recently found out, Fredericton, New Brunswick has some of the best-rated B&Bs around. We stayed in two of them near the centre of this historic capital city filled with ornate heritage buildings.

It was a chance to experience one-of-a-kind homes filled with stories, talk to owners who live there and could provide first-hand suggestions on things to do, and enjoy sumptuous breakfasts which are a huge step up from the ordinary. In each case, we could leave our car at the house, since both homes are within a 20-minute walk to downtown attractions.

Quartermain House

Debra Quartermain greeted us warmly on the steps of Quartermain House, her historic home that dates to 1840 near central Fredericton. The home sits on a huge lot on the corner of Waterloo Row and Shore Street, just across the street from the banks of the Saint John River.

Debra showed us to our room in Quartermain Quarters on the second floor. On a little tray were a few treats, including some famous New Brunswick-made Ganong chocolates. The antique-adorned room was quite spacious, but our jaws dropped when we opened the door to the bathroom. It seemed bigger than some hotel rooms we’ve stayed in, with a gigantic soaker tub, walk-in shower, double vanity, and monogrammed linens. Our room even had a butler call button outside the door, but Debra was quick to point out that it no longer works.

The next morning we explored the library and sitting room with their fireplaces and antique furnishings. In the foyer, a table displays a book with a drawing of Quartermain House on the cover. Writer Karen Shaler, a frequent visitor who fell in love with the place, used the home as inspiration for her novel Love Always, Christmas.

The sunny dining room with its inset corner cupboards was where Debra served breakfast. A just-baked blueberry crumble was on today’s menu, along with fresh fruit and an aged cheddar omelette. Her menus include fresh and locally sourced ingredients.

This used to be home to some fairly famous folks. Thomas Harrison, who became the first New Brunswick-born president of the University of New Brunswick lived here for many years. Then came John McNair and his family. McNair was premier of New Brunswick and later served as chief justice and lieutenant-governor.

Another visitor stops by occasionally as well – the benevolent ghost of renowned poet Bliss Carman who lived just down the street. He appears as a handsome man wearing a morning suit. Some guests have reported seeing him, including Debra.

Debra purchased the house about 12 years ago. She and her husband renovated the home to include three B&B rooms, painted the exterior a deep red, and restored the extensive gardens on the huge lot.

She describes the mix of old and new features as providing a “timeless and classic atmosphere” that immediately puts guests at ease, and helps them unwind and slow down during their stay. Guests love to see how people lived in past times, and appreciate the craftsmanship of the architecture. They enjoy the gardens in the summer with the floral displays, hummingbirds, and butterflies.

There’s even a connection between the chocolates in every room and Debra’s family. Her great-grandfather Christian Laubman immigrated to New Brunswick from Germany and made his way to St. Stephen where the famous Ganong company made chocolates and other types of candy. With a background in confections, Laubman worked for Ganong as a confectioner for the rest of his career.

Debra has hosted everything from weddings to family get-togethers, book club events, and government officials. For various holidays she pulls out all the stops and gives the place a festive look with plenty of decorations.

Her efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. A few years ago, Quartermain House was named by Booking.com as the #1 B&B in North America and second in the world based on customer reviews. Debra enjoyed the publicity but remains humble as to how it came about.

“This tiny B&B in this old house run by this woman in her 60s who loves meeting people and giving them breakfast,” is how she sums it all up. “We’re part of peoples’ travel experiences and their life experiences. It’s a huge honour and a gift so we want to make their stay as special as possible.”

The Red House

On the corner of Regent Street and Needham Streets, the Red House offers another luxurious B&B option near the heart of central Fredericton. After spending a couple of days here, we could see why it consistently gets top ratings on Trip Advisor.

When we arrived, owners Monica and John Antworth were on hand to welcome us. Monica showed us to our upstairs room, and a few minutes later came back with a welcome drink of Prosecco and some snacks.

The house dates to the 1859 Victorian era and is built in Gothic Revival Style. Over all that time it has only been lived in by two families including Monica’s. She grew up here and for as long as she can remember it’s always been red and is known in the neighbourhood as “the red house”.

“Some kids even thought that Santa Claus lived here,” Monica recalled.

Monica’s father was a lawyer and used part of the house at his office. Now that area has been turned into a studio suite that is popular with families traveling with pets. Another studio suite with a kitchenette is the Sunporch Loft which was originally built as servants’ quarters.

Monica and John have made many renovations to the family home, such as combining the original master bedroom and nursery into the upstairs D’Arcy Luxury suite where we stayed. Recognizing the family who built the home, the Fowler suite has many restored antiques that belonged to the Fowlers. Similarly, the Antworth suite is named after the current owners. A small upstairs room has been turned into a reading room with big comfy chairs, a place to make coffee and tea and read books on Fredericton, New Brunswick, and elsewhere.

Each evening, Monica collects your menu choices for breakfast. Breakfast is included for those staying in suites, and optional for studio guests. When we asked what time breakfast was served, the answer was “whenever you want.” You can also choose where to have breakfast – in the ornate dining room surrounded by antique furniture, outside on the patio, or in your room.

Our meal began with a cup of granola and yogurt with a warm maple drizzle for added pizzazz. Then came the main plates – waffles with fruit and whipped cream, and an omelette served with toast and locally-made preserves.

Monica and John have spent their lives in New Brunswick and are a fountain of knowledge when it comes to suggesting things to see in the city and area. We joined them on the patio to go over the options and decided that a visit to the famous Beaverbrook Art Gallery, Fredericton Region Museum, riverfront, and the Legislative Assembly were all within an easy walk.

What impressed us most about the Red House was Monica and John’s welcoming nature and interest in their guests. They go out of their way to make sure you have everything you need to enjoy your stay at their home and in Fredericton.

Resources

• Quartermain House B&B
• The Red House B&B
• Fredericton’s website has a wealth of information on places to eat, pubs and the Tap Room Trail, accommodation, and a host of ways to explore this distinctive capital city.
• For more information on other attractions throughout New Brunswick visit Tourism New Brunswick.

Other articles on New Brunswick on Photojourneys that you might enjoy

• King’s Landing – A Window to the Past
• Having a Sweet Time in St. Stephen, New Brunswick
• Covered bridges of New Brunswick
• Exploring Cape Enrage
• Saint John, New Brunswick is a Delightful Mix of History and Nature
• St. Martins and the Fundy Trail Parkway
• Minister’s Island – Driving Across the Ocean Floor in New Brunswick
• Kingsbrae Gardens near St. Andrews

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